price because of the age of the furnace. I suggest factoring that into your first accepted offer. A good inspector will assess the appropriate model and capacity and ensure the heat exchanger is not cracked. Check the electrical panel. The inspector will determine if its copper or aluminum wiring you won't be able to tell by looking at it? Remember old panels legally don't have to meet current code they get grandfathered in, but a new panel might be needed. Inspect basements and attics. Check the attic for water leakage issues. Look for water damage or leaks that may have affected the insulation, walls, and ceiling of the attic. Make sure the insulation is adequate for where the property is located. In the basement, look for evidence of moisture problems. Is there water leaking onto the floor or water around the foundation? There should be no cracks in the basement walls, and any wood, such as those in exposed beams, should be in good condition with no rot. Look at pipes and turn on taps. Check that the plumbing is up to date. Run taps to ensure they work properly, and the water pressure is strong enough. Exposed pipes in unheated areas should be insulated, as frozen pipes will eventually cause water damage. One of the concerns now is Poly B Piping. This piping was used a lot in the 90s. There is a lot of miss information about this so learn the facts. This grey colored piping has had reports of developing leaks at many joints. Insurance companies have made a lot of noise giving Poly "B" a bad reputation. The true fact is most leaks have not been mid pipe but at the joints demonstrating an installation issue not the pipe itself. The cost to replace can be expensive 10,000 to 20,000 depending on the size of the house. There are thousands of homes that have this piping so it's common to come across it. If you are scared of it focus on homes that are newer than 2001. In some condos with in-floor heating some buildings used Kitec piping which also has had issues with cracking.
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